From Vietnam With Love

A review of Réhahn’s photo book Vietnam-Mosaic of Contrast Vol II

An elderly woman from H’Mong ethnic minority hides a bashful smile behind her hands coloured with indigo through years of dyeing traditional clothes.

The majesty of the scenery in Ha Giang: Terraced rice paddies, primeval forests, cloud-covered paths, striking mountains.

Stunning daily life moments in Hoi An: splendid skies, brisk sunrises, romantic sunset, the contours of its river.

Those are some snapshots in Réhahn’s latest photo book Vietnam-Mosaic of Contrast, a much-expected sequent to his previously successful one. Originally from Normandy, Réhahn had a different hectic life in France before he made his biggest move to pack and relocate to the ancient town of Hoi An and started making professional photography his new career. Since then, he has taken numerous trips to some of Vietnam’s most far-flung corners, fascinated with the natural beauty and captivated by the heart-warming hospitality of local people.

With a compilation of 150 outstanding photos taken in 2014-2015, Réhahn presents in this book the best of Vietnam: its people, landscapes, seasons, mountains, towns and countryside. And smiles. There are lots of happy faces in his book: from the cheeky grin of the little Co Tu girl, the beaming delight of a Red Dao lady to the cheerful eyes of a Prao grandfather.

The book consists of four themes selected to introduce the contemporary Vietnam in all of its mosaic colours. The opening one brings you back to the wonderland of young children often full of laughter and curiosity. Childhood shown in Réhahn’s photography is like a firework, an explosion opening up your imagination. Once upon a time, there was this little happy girl who lived in a little village by the mountain. A huge elephant was her good friend and the biggest banana leave was taken as her shelter from the rain. The story would go on and on…

 

The next chapter portrays the elderly who are seen synonymous with wisdom, tenderness, and sympathy. Dozens years of hard working have earned these old souls their graceful wrinkles yet cant not take away the joie de vivre. You can tell a lot by gazing deeply into their eyes: the explosive joy is paralleled with the myths; a witty face is next to a thoughtful sight. The finest of Réhahn’s techniques is affirmed in these rustic portraits. Yet it would be a mistake if we don’t mention those stunning hands on which time has drawn its lines and the sun, wind and rain has tanned its warm colours.

Robert Capa once said, “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” Except some landscape shots which require tele-lenses, Réhahn has followed exactly in Capa’s footstep. As a portraitist, he always tries to get physically closer, to become more involved and intimate with his subjects. Sometimes, he spent up to three hours getting to know his models, talking to them before shooting the photos in their most natural, unguarded moments. There are not many captions accompanying each frame; yet pictures of childhood and elderly in the first two parts of this book invites us to visit local people in their familiar setting, to look for the essential soul peeking out, the experience etched on a person’s face, and to interpret stories in our own ways.

Lifestyle is the focus of the third part collecting flashes in daily life of ordinary people. Never a boring movement, life breathes profoundly through each image. Here you see a Co Tu old lady weaving brocade using her body as the loom. Turning to the next page and you would find a farmer planting rice seedlings with mud still dripping from her hands. Next, there would be a group of Cham ladies who walked through majestic sand dunes with pottery jugs carried above their heads, looked as mysterious as they were performing a ritual. Characters in Réhahn’s works never spend a dull moment; they dance beautifully in a rhythm of life.

Also in this part of the book, it is easy to feel the love Réhahn has for Hoi An, his home away from home. Hoi An shines in his shots as the magical yellow city: a street vender walking in the beaming afternoon sun, a farmer in her aromatic herbs garden in Tra Que, the flowing of the timeless Thu Bon river, a gorgeous young lady in her iconic pure white Ao Dai outfit seen on the pretty Nguyen Thai Hoc street.

The book closes with its last part – landscape. Vietnamese nature through Réhahn’s lenses are sweet yet epic. He compliments the glory of mountains, the tender of water, the grace of light, the figure of a lonely tree, the romance of a fading afternoon, the enchantment of sunrises. Getting to these final pages and for a moment, time stops and you are taken to a far away land with promising adventures await. The country reveals its unique charms and opens its invitation for further exploration.

More than a stock of images, Vietnam-Mosaic of Contrast acts as a portal into the lives of Vietnamese people the photographer has met and the distant lands they inhabit. To complete this book, Réhahn has travelled to 35 destinations all over the country, engaging with communities of various different ethnic minorities, recording their unique ways of life. He proved his artistic sense to always be curious and amused with what he saw along the way, the ability to merge seamlessly with a different culture and document the human experience with astute eyes.

Travel as far as the eyes and heart can see. These beautiful shots by Réhahn are a testimony to that. It is a photo diary from the wonderland; and above all, it is the work done with lots of love.

Now the chance to put this weighty book on the coffee table and admire each photo with a cup of tea is yours!

Photos: Réhahn Photography

 

Back to the roots

Let me ask straight up: ‘When was the last time you went to a real traditional Vietnamese music show?’ If your answer is something like ‘About a thousand years ago’, behind the joke is an element of truth – Vietnam’s once-popular folk music is fading away.

Over the last decade or more, as the karaoke virus continues to sweep through the country, foreign pop music has increasingly dominated Vietnam’s music market. Ask any teenager who their favourite music icon is and they’ll probably say Taylor Swift. One may have expected some traditional music on TV and radio over Tet, but more likely it was ABBA’s ‘Happy New Year’ being played seemingly on a loop. Head to any shows advertised for tourists and you’ll find that traditional music is not only rare but also overly-commercialized. Venture outside of Hanoi to a local festival in Bac Ninh to hear romantic quan ho singing and what you get in return is a detuned microphone and the sound of the crowd.

As the glorious legacy of this intangible Vietnamese heritage may soon be in danger of disappearing there are very few opportunities left to hear traditional Vietnamese music. This fact drove Vu Nhat Tan and Dam Quang Minh to set up the Dong Kinh Ancient Music Ensemble, in an effort to revive the many genres that span Vietnam’s musical spectrum, from theatrical to chamber music, from folk songs to Buddhist chants.

For more than a year the Dong Kinh Ensemble has presented a series of monthly performances at a new arts venue in Hanoi, at 50 Dao Duy Tu in the Old Quarter. Each show has been curated to include a combination of five different traditional genres: ca tru, hat van, cheo, tuong, and hat xam. While the roots of ca tru can be traced back to Royal Court music and later to an intimate circle of socially elite groups, hat van is a ritual nurtured through ‘Four Palaces’ worshipping ceremonies. Tuong is considered the most classical and scholarly drama of the country, and cheo is a form of generally satirical musical theatre. Hat xam, meanwhile, was originally performed on the street by guilds of sight-impaired singers.

The Ensemble’s co-founder, Vu Nhat Tan, is a classically-trained musician who has spent his life fusing classical music with ambient noise and experimental sounds from field recordings. He has always, however, found great inspiration in the folk, court and concert music in various regions throughout Vietnam. Dam Quang Minh is also an enthusiast when it comes to traditional music. Born and bred in Hanoi he can be seen as the keen spectator striking a drum to show his appreciation at each ca tru performance. Joining forces, they are determined to make this music available to ordinary people.

‘The traditional music we sometimes hear at commercial shows or even at festivals is very questionable,’ Tan said. ‘Back in the old days there wasn’t even electricity, so why is ca tru or cheo now sung with a microphone? That’s not traditional music. Frankly, it’s fake’. He and the team of 20 artists at the Dong Kinh Ensemble worked hard for years to bring the music back to its original form as much as possible. ‘What we present is real Vietnamese music,’ he exclaimed. ‘Nothing else!’

In keeping the spirit of the arts alive, the first thing to do is recover traditional instruments. People’s Artist Nguyen Xuan Hoach is a master when it comes to this. He has beautifully restored the silk strings used on a Dan day (a long-necked, three-string lute), a Dan nhi (a two-string fiddle), and a Dan nguyet (a two-string lute). In each ca tru performance he skilfully plucks the silk strings of his Day day in time with the beat of the phach, a bamboo percussion instrument struck with two sticks by singer Thanh Binh. Thanh Hoai is another great vocalist who associates her name with chèo while Luong Trong Quynh uses her beautiful voice in hat van.

Each performance by the Dong Kinh Ensemble is an unforgettable experience for the audience. If you like the show you can express your gratitude by tossing a bamboo stick into a clanging metal bowl as a symbol of your appreciation. ‘The reward stick is the traditional way the audience signifies their approval and delight,’ Tan explained. With its setting, the performance also allows audience to sit very close to the stage, which makes for a most charming and intimate experience.

Hans Johnson, a Swedish native, was surprised by the sincere beauty of the music the Dong Kinh Ensemble presented. ‘Though I’m not familiar with it, the musical expression is unique,’ he said. ‘Both the lute player and the vocalists did an amazing job.’ Hai Anh, a local student, was also happy to be introduced to these pure art forms and the enchanting sounds and poetry.

So whether you’ve only just arrived in town or care deeply about these fading music genres, the Dong Kinh Ancient Music Ensemble promises to present an exotic side of Hanoi, a hidden gem behind its bustling streets. It’s music that invites you to travel back in time, to reflect, to rethink and re-imagine what is beauty, what is poetry, and what is art, and to feel the vibe of the country’s musical history from its past to the present.

 

Shades of indigo

Thao Vu’s story to create an ethical fashion brand at Kilomet 109

I met Thao Vu, the designer behind the local clothing label Kilomet 109 in a foggy winter afternoon at her beautifully laid out studio near Tay Ho. The attic where she works is filled with warm and dark colours as one might imagine in a typical arts studio. Except mesmerizing indigo is on exhibition everywhere, in all of its glorious shades from deep navy to shimmering blues. As the story unfolds, you know that a designer like her is rare in the age when fast fashion, mass production, mass tourism are erasing, among other things, artisan textile weaving and traditional dyeing techniques.

Thao became fascinated with all things indigenous and traditional since a very young age. A passion that later followed her to the London College for Design & Fashion (Hanoi) where she studied Design and Creative Merchandising. Another few years were spent learning from working with foreign labels such as Victoria Roe and A.D.Deertz. Then a wake up call from the indigo enthusiast inside her and the entrepreneurial spirit lead to the creation of her own brand “Kilomet 109”, which features Vietnamese traditional weaving, dyeing techniques and sustainable fabrics.

“You might not know but fashion is the world’s 2nd most polluting industry, second only to oil; and 70% of global apparel brands don’t control their production line, which can easily lead to environmental exploitation and workers mistreatment”.

Thao presented me with these disturbing facts about the garments and textile industry at the very beginning of our talk. This fuelled her motivation to venture into creating an ethical fashion label. “It took four years to achieve what I have to day,” she said.

Her odyssey journey has not been an easy ride filled with glamour and success. Not only is ethical fashion a completely new concept in Vietnam, Thao also came across a lot of cultural difference when she worked with local partners from ethnic minorities groups. She tried and failed and tried again. After years of hard work and cooperation with textile producers from Nung, Dao Tien groups in Cao Bang, Thai-Muong group in Mai Chau, she has experienced and learned how to balance between keeping the original technique with putting a contemporary feel to each of her design work.

At Kilomet 109, organic silk, cotton and hemp are dyed using various natural methods. If Củ Nâu, the yam root produces brown and skin tones, then Lá Cẩm, a pink and red flower gives the material a deep purple glow. Thao managed to create a wider colour range by alternating the intensity of ingredients and periods of dye time. She goes further by experimenting different colouring skills using coffee beans, Bồ kết (silk detergent) or Mặc Nưa fruit, a technique traditionally applied by Khmer minority. But spanning through her collections is the timeless indigo, light as blue sky or dark as ghastly navy.

Thao doesn’t just copy traditions; she incorporates and reinterprets them in a chic and charming way. As much as she loves traditional materials and techniques, she is careful not to turn her design into sophisticated costumes often showcased at cultural events only. Instead, she chose a much more practical approach. Natural dyeing, beeswax printing, hand quilting and embroidery cloth are elegantly matched with urban, minimalist designs with a delicate sense of cuts and forms. One has to pay close attention to realize that some hand crochet buttons, hand quilted lapels, the neckline of a cotton blouse have been detailed with indigenous touch. This results in a unique Sustainable Line that includes stunning coffee-dyed raw silk skirts; comfy indigo dress shirts, grey yam dyed hand-quilted hoodies and much more.

What make Kilomet 109’s products unique is there is always a story behind each of them. Thao showed me a dainty black silk jacket saying she bought the silk 12 years ago before her marriage. Only recently did she get around to turn this delicate material into a vintage graceful blouse, which quickly became a best-seller item. “I try to speak through my clothes: who made them, how they are made and what’s in them” Thao revealed.

On Kilomet 109’s Facebook page, she regularly shared snapshots and short videos explaining details of her work. The illustration to her new biker hemp jacket is a perfect example. As it was explained, the jacket was made applying the extraordinary beetling craft from H’mong Ethnic Group. The fabric, already dyed in indigo, is placed over the wood and the rock. The local H’mong lady balances on top of the rock with her feet apart and moves side to side in a see saw action back and forward. At the same time the cloth moves to the left of the wood so that the length can be worked in a continuous process. The cloth becomes finer, softer and more lustrous – almost with a metallic sheet.

Sharing and educating mass audience towards ethical fashion is also the motivation for Thao to get engaged in the local media campaign “Fashion Revolution” in an attempt to make customers especially the young and digital natives to be conscious of who made their clothes, from who spun the threads; who sewed them together, to who grew the cotton in the first place.

As fast fashion floods all over the country, copy-cat design shops dominate the creative landscape in big cities like Hanoi, Saigon, customers are increasingly told to catch up with latest trends by spending non-stop on disposable clothes. Thao Vu’s Kilomet 109 is a gentle reminder that we can choose a slower pace of life, enjoying the artisan heritage of the past without compromising on style and comfort of the present.

 

 

Young and Bright

From co-working spaces to start-ups, how Vietnamese youth are catching up with their contemporaries around the world.

In November 2015, the Miss Ao Dai building in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City becomes the focal point of the start-ups scene in the city. It is here where Dreamplex, the latest co-working space for start-up entrepreneurs, creatives, consultants and investors was opened.

Housed in a total area of 1,500 sq m spreading over three storeys, this beautifully designed hub can accommodate at least 30 startups and 100 freelancers. Members resided at Dreamplex specify as design studios, booking solutions, educational platforms, to cutting edge applications.

Two noteworthy illustrations include Umbala, founded by Thao Nguyen, a bold initiative that lets people capture and broadcast 12s long video and ELSA (English Language Speech Assistant), a mobile application for pronunciation training and accent reduction using speech recognition.

Meanwhile up in the North, Toong is another inspirational player in this category that offers numerous different packages ranging from dedicated and flexible desks to virtual office. Located just two minutes walk from the Sword Lake area; Toong aims to become a community of like-minded entrepreneurs and mobile professionals in the capital.

 

Besides Toong, Hanoi has two other well-known co-working spaces-cum-incubators, including HATCH! NEST and Hub.IT along with several smaller places like HanoiHub, ClickSpace, Coffice, iHouse Cafe.

People behind these initiatives are often representatives of Vietnamese’s young and brightest. Toong’s co-founder Do Son Duong; for instance, is in his early thirties while Dreamplex’s investor; Nguyen Trung Tin is only twenty-eight. As a young CEO of Trung Thuy group, he has been listed as one of Forbes Vietnam’s 30 most influential youths under 30. Tin and Duong, as many other peers of his Internet savvy generation, are excited with opportunities that economic integration and new technology brings them.

Across the country, Vietnamese youth are embracing the digital future with open arms. Theirs is a world of cell phones, apps, wifi cafés, online shopping, co-offices. They come up with new ideas, start new companies and have ambitions of making it to the top.

A recent digital survey has revealed an explosive growth of social media and the Internet usage in Vietnam. As of January 2015 an estimated 40 millions of Vietnam’s more than 90.7 millions people have access to the Internet, accounting for 44% of the population, among them 28 millions are active social media users. A high Internet penetration, a golden-age population are welcoming signs for Vietnamese digital market.

While dominating figures in in the last 10 years include entities valued in millions like VNG, Tiki.vn, Appota, mWork, Topica, Hotdeal, the majority of start-ups in Vietnam are at a very small-scaled range.

The monumental and magical success of the game “Flappy Bird” in 2014, which at its peak could bring about $50,000 a day in advertising for its creator Nguyen Ha Dong, has created a viral effect and inspired a new wave of digital start-ups and entrepreneurs to emerge in the country. Anh Minh Do from Tech-in-Asia accessed Vietnam’s start up scene is the most aggressive in South East Asia.

The government; meanwhile, has pledged to provide a bigger supporting role for start-ups in the country. “Start-ups are small businesses, but they play an undeniable role in our economy,” said the Deputy Prime Minister Vu Duc Dam in a first-time meeting with the Vietnamese startup community in mid-August, 2015.

However it is not all bright colours when looking at the start up picture in Vietnam. Although there is no official figure, as commonly seen across the world, it is the widely agreed truth that the country’s start up landscape is largely dominated by men.

The prejudice that technology sector is solely suitable for men, the misunderstanding that IT jobs is all about developing and coding, the traditional role of women within family and society have all contributed to this gender imbalance in the sector.

In September 2015, Microsoft organised for the first time in Saigon Tech Femme, an initiative to encourage female to join Information Technology profession and promote diversity in the industry. It is thus necessary to mention some notable figures in the field who have highlighted the role as well as the ability that female can contribute to tech start ups.

ELSA’s co-founder Ms Truong Thanh Thuy; for example, is dubbed “Vietnam’s start-up Queen”. At the age of 29, she has set up three businesses in different industries. Her social messaging application Tappy was recently acquired by Weeby, a mobile gaming technology company based in Silicon Valley, California, for “an undisclosed seven-figure sum”.

Pham Lan Khanh is another female star who co-founded Freelancerviet.vn, a community and platform that connects freelancers to freelance jobs while Lam Ha started tripp.me, a travel platform that enables travelers to enjoy private tours crafted by local tour guide, which is currently valued at one million.

From co-working spaces to fast growing start-ups, Vietnamese youth are proving their entrepreneurial spirit and determination after years of restrained poverty and hardship. Opportunities in digital technology industry have never been offered so plenty; together with it, competition has never been hotter during the last few years.

Some co-working spaces have been opened then closed; many more startups were founded… and failed; yet the desire of invading this intense market still remains.

For one thing is guaranteed: Vietnam’s youth share the same spirit as their elder generation. Being patient, resilient and hardworking, it is these qualities; not the foreign invested money, will carry the country into the future.

Spice of life

As the first seasonal breezes signal the arrival of winter in Hanoi my appetite turns towards Indian flavours. How I love those oriental spices of turmeric and cinnamon, cumin and coriander, fenugreek and ginger, along with a splash of chilli, whether for a quick lunch or a lingering dinner. And luckily there is a place far from the sub-continent that never lets me down. Right in the heart of Hanoi, Khazaana is its name!

Being the first Indian restaurant established in the city, in 1993, Khazaana has stood the test of time and continued to serve the local culinary scene. On busy Duong Thanh Street, you might have to navigate swarms of maddening traffic and bustling crowds but once you’ve walked through Khazaana’s glass doors into the elegant and spacious restaurant the mystical scent of curry slowly hits you and makes you realise that this is exactly what you’ve been longing for!

My friend and I are always welcomed by the friendly owner, Mr Kaustubh Trivedi, who this time suggested we try a range of signature dishes. When the food arrived at the table we knew a magical treat had begun!

It was a presentation of colour, a celebration of beautiful cups and pots and, most importantly, an extravagance of spices and flavours!

Both the samosas and the vegetable pakora were lovely for starters while the mains were a selection of curries, including sweet and rich prawns, classic slow-cooked lamb, flavoured vegetables and lentils, with basmati rice. Each curry has its own distinctive flavour and are all wholesome, demure and, for me, nostalgic. While the tender lamb is powerfully spiced, the vegetables are light and fragrant and the prawns proved to be my all-time favourite. And then there’s the cheese nan bread! It was the Wow factor for the night!

An element that makes Khazaana truly stand out is the superiority of its ingredients. Using only imported spices, the restaurant offers classic recipes with a modern twist and has been hailed by many loyal customers as some of the best authentic Indian food outside of India.

When it comes to the cuisine’s diversity, Khazaana truly fulfils my expectations. The vast menu covers a wide range of Desi Indian and Mughlai cuisine encompassing a broad spectrum of mild to explosive and it would take several visits to get through it all.

Be it North Indian cuisine – tasty Tandoori plates and delicately crafted out Moghul recipes noted for their quality, freshness and flavour, or South Indian fare – the sheer variety of food items that will be twisted out of rice and pulses combination is unbelievable – the Idlis, Dosas, and Vadas eaten with the choicest chutneys and Sambar and, of course, a plethora of rice items to choose from! At Khazaana there is something pukka to cater for either vegetarians or meat-craving souls.

And you can’t end a meal without a proper dessert. I would suggest a choice of Gulab Jamun or Saffron/Mango Kulfi, which will do justice to your fascinating curry adventure!

Khazaana Restaurant

Add: 34 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi

A Japanese soul

Interviewing Reiko Usuda – founder of U Cafe -Hoi An

Hoi An is an easy city to love with its gentle yellow buildings beaming in the sun, the shaded courtyards, the silken lanterns hanging from trees. Yet after you get bored browsing the interminable cloth shops in the Old Town, there’s a hidden spot just a throw away by the name U Café that make you feel immediately like falling into a little oasis of tranquillity.

The pretty structure facing Hoai river is designed to get you measured up in picturesque beauty from the small ponds with lily pads to stretching view over the countryside. The very gracious Japanese lady behind the concept of U Café, Mrs Reiko Usuda obviously puts a lot of heart into what she is doing.

We sat down with her to talk about the shop, how she had found Hoi An her second home, and how living with no philosophy yet being utterly happy

Tell us about your journey from Japan to Vietnam?

I first came to Vietnam in 2003 and I fell in love with the place. So when I retired as a dental technician, I finally had the chance to move here. It was like my dream finally coming true. I first studied Vietnamese in Hanoi though not very successful. Then I moved to Da Nang and finally I found home here in Hoi An. But still I have not been able to acquired “Quang Nam” accent yet

You seem to enjoy it here?

Oh yes absolutely. In Japan it is all about work, from morning till evening. I have been working for 30 years and it was very boring. I prefer Vietnamese lifestyle.

Here in Hoi An, people are very warm to each other. Maybe because of natural disasters, the yearly floods happen so often, people are closer and are willing to help out. They are very optimistic here.

Of course, there has been always the cultural link between Hoi An and Japan but I think we have to learn a lot from Vietnamese society: relationship with families, friendship, traditional things. Vietnam still has its own culture that we should be careful not to lose it

For example? What’s one traditional thing that you really like?

Here we observe “vegetarian day” for example, on the first and the fifteen days of the month according to the lunar calendar. My parents in Japan used to do the same but now we have lost this custom, which I think we should recognize and rememorize

So what’s special about this initiative of U Café?

It has a Japanese garden feel yet very local, that’s how we like it, a fusion between Japanese and Vietnamese. There is no air conditioner and we do not put any music on purpose so you can fully enjoy the natural breeze and the tranquility. The only noise you can hear is from the geese next door.

Our ingredients are sourced mostly from local markets, farmers of the organic vegetable village Tra Que and a family of organic coffee farmers in Dak Lak.

But it is not just like any other cafes in town I guess? A sustainable approach as it is said on the board?

Yes it is my small project to introduce Japanese technology to protect the environment. Some Japanese architects helped me design this green space and local builders brought it to life.

We have an eco-system to recycle water from the kitchen sink and bathrooms then put it in rooftop tanks and pump it for the lilies ponds. This is also the venue to organise talks on environment for youths. We have welcomed different students groups to visit and discuss on sustainability.

The second objective is to support our young Vietnamese female staffs through employment and training.

I would like to train the girls working here Japanese hospitality service along with English and Japanese language. Later on, it would be easier if they want to open a shop or a small café on their own. They will also have better job opportunities in hospitality services

 

So you function like an NGO?

This is a social venture. We do not aim for big profit here, the profit is put back to invest. Seven years ago, I have not seen many social ventures in Hoi An but now things are different.

I don’t want to open an NGO as it has to rely on donors; but with a social small business, I think people can make a good change. Vietnamese people can help themselves with this model.

How did your inspiration to support other people come from?

In Japan I used to work as the secretary for Japan – Vietnamese Friendship Association in Kawasaki city. We donate unused bicycles to disadvantaged students some of whom have to walk as far as 10 km to go to school. So far, we have sent 10000 bicycles to Quang Nam – Da Nang region. But bike donation is not our sole purpose; we also want to get to know the students personally. I have been involved in charities activities since then.

I consider myself to be lucky so I have to give back to society as a way to say thank you

Is that your philosophy in life?

I don’t have any philosophy in life at all; I just always enjoy what I like.

But when I was small, I went to a school with a motto “For others” which taught us to live together and work for others. I think that motto was seeded within myself and I would like to carry on

So looking back, how would you describe yourself as a person?

I am just a common person. I’m not an expat. I am not different (smile)

You think you will settle here in Hoi An in this comfortable space?

For me, U Café is my 10 year project. In the next 3 years, I would like to pass it on to another Vietnamese lady. My next venture would be to open a bakery for people with disabilities on our first floor. I also would like to move to Buon Me Thuot to work with local farmers to produce organic coffee. I will continue living in Vietnam but I am not sure exactly where yet. We’ll see

I feel very inspiring and humbling to talk to you. Thank you for that. Here is just a final random question before we say goodbye. You have learned Vietnamese so what your favourite Vietnamese word is?

“Nước”, it means water and country. It is very important. It is a beautiful language

Where to find U Café?

U Café is located on Huyền Trân Công Chúa stretching from the bridge Cầu Cẩm Nam near the central market towards Cửa Đại beach. You will pass Anantara Hotel and Petrolimex before seeing the bare bricks building next to a duck farm. Hop in for a fresh drink and talk to Reiko and all the friendly staffs!

Address: U Cafe – Huyen Tran Cong Chua street, Cam Chau, Hoi An. Phone: +84 (0)510 3501118, Email: ucafehoian@gmail.com

 

All the rivers run!

All the rivers run into the sea; yet the sea is not full; unto the place from whence the rivers come, thither they return again.

Six years ago, hundreds of people in Triem Tay Village on the riverside of Thu Bon hurriedly moved away for fear the serious erosion that had devastated the area over the years bears too much possible risks to their livelihood. But the French – Vietnamese architect Bui Kien Quoc saw this both as a challenge and an opportunity. For Quoc, 71, whose hometown was not far from the source of Thu Bon, this great water that runs nearly 200km length from its origin to Cua Dai estuary can be strong inspiration for a new model of river-based tourism.

Over the next five years, Quoc designed and built a bio-dyke of vetiver and various domestic grass varieties which functions as a green barrier preventing aggressive floods.

“This soft dyke, not the concrete cement one is to keep everything in harmony with the river and its surrounding landscape,” he said.

“It gives the feeling that everything is untouched. It is still the same old waterfront village except the erosion is now restrained”.

From the ancient town of Hoi An, visitors are welcomed on a scenic boat ride on the river before stepping on his eco-resort Triem Tay Gardens for a shift to a quiet serenity. “The water is important as it is a different experience to see things” Quoc emphasizes the appeal of the river excursion leading to Triem Tay

Set on a stunning promontory bordering lush vegetation, his quaint lodge is ideal for anyone looking for a rural feel and a tranquillity retreat. Rustic charm paired with awe-inspiring views makes this the perfect getaway location with four individually designed bamboo and wooden cottages – the Guru, the Village, the Sunset and the Yoga.

But what the place sells the best is not its rural villas or modern amenities, it is the glowing sunset at the end of the day when the sun goes down on the other side of the river, the water turns completely still and one can feel greatly immersed in nature and harmony.
In Quoc’s opinon, Vietnam has a lot of potential to develop river based tourism utilising the great natural network of rivers and canals integrating nicely with inland waterways. “We have more than 3000km coastline, yet we also have thousands kilometres of running rivers”.

In fact, Viet Nam’s dense river networks of which 2360 rivers have a length of more than 10 km and many international rivers constitute a significant tourism resource of cultural heritage and natural environment. It makes the country a dynamic destination that one hardly finds anywhere else.

A river cruise brings a pleasant sight seeing alternative for those wanting to experience the real Vietnam and see Vietnamese daily life outside of big cities. There are a variety of small-ship itineraries to choose from whether it is a tour on the Ngo Dong river, Ninh Binh province visiting magnificent limestone caves, or a foodie cruise on the Saigon river. For those who are short of time yet keen on getting away from Saigon centre, a boat ride to The Deck situated on the banks of the Saigon River, proves to be one of the city’s most elegant sunset cruise and a real fine-dining treat with picturesque view.

For romantic souls, there is a more peaceful journey in a traditional dragon boat along the gentle Huong river abound Hue city where royal tombs of rich imperial legacies, wooden houses, magnificent temples and flourishing landscape mingle.

With the water snakes through so many different cultures with distinctive cuisines, Vietnam’s river based tourism presents travellers a different cultural perspective and the chance for quiet reflection.

The name of the mighty Mekong River itself; for example, is a magnet itself to attract an influx of international visitors to the region. With its unique natural sceneries and the rich culture, a wide variety of tourism products has been developed, from dinner cruises to deluxe cruises with cabin and deck, and are ready to cater different needs of both domestic and international customers.

The Aqua Mekong cruise is one of those which offers luxury sail up and down the epic river between Vietnam and Cambodia with fully equipped fitness centre, screening room, outdoor evening cinema, observation deck and a top deck, river facing pool at the bow.

But even for travellers who are on a shoestring budget, there are also a lot of options to explore this fascinating region. Having walked the tourist hungry streets of Saigon, going down the water to the Mekong Delta is a change of pace and a connection to the world being left behind. My Tho, Vinh Long, Tien Giang, Can Tho, Ben Tre are some of the traditional gateways to the delta.

My Tho’s bustling waterfront is a fascinating insight into the region’s rich agricultural industry where you have the chance to cruise by lavishly green rice fields and orchards.

Meanwhile in Tien Giang and Can Tho, you can find one of the busiest floating markets in Vietnam. In Cai Be, Cai Rang, you can experience the buzzling sights and sounds with its hundreds of hawkers in sampans, selling mountains of watermelons, mango or jack fruits and other fresh grown locally produce. Cai Rang is especially delightful near the Lunar New Year period, where the river life gets more colourful than ever with flat bottom boats full of flowerpots ready to be delivered.

However, it is sometimes not the river itself, but the community living on the waterfront that attracts the keen visitors. For people like Alex, who comes from a mountainous region of Scotland, seeing the local people’s daily lives built around the water and houses on stilts line the banks of the river is just fascinating. As he said “culture is a way of life and the river gives you a touch of real life”.

So get on the boat and embark on a whole new adventure. The river is calling!